I first tasted this cake at my friend Adam’s house last December. I was in New York for a short visit to promote the big fat pink book, and Adam and Craig invited me to dinner.
I always appreciate a home-cooked meal when I’m traveling, and this one was especially memorable. After a simple salad of roasted beets and a rich dish of milk-braised pork (see Adam’s post for the recipes), dessert arrived: an almond cake adapted from a recipe Amanda Hesser published in the New York Times and later collected in her book Cooking for Mr. Latte.
The cake was excellent — buttery and aromatic, tender in the center with a pleasant crust all around. Adam kindly wrapped an extra slice for me to take to the hotel, and after that first bite I was determined to recreate it at home.
It took a few months before I finally baked the cake. When my nephew turned two that spring and the family gathered to celebrate, I made it for the occasion. The cake’s defining feature is its use of almond paste rather than whole or ground almonds. That ingredient gives the cake a smooth, almost silky crumb and a pronounced almond flavor without any grittiness. The texture reminded me of a Swedish almond cake I’ve been meaning to try, and it made me think about variations I might attempt when apples are in season.
I also slightly lightened the original recipe: I reduced the butter and sugar and substituted plain yogurt for sour cream. Even with those adjustments, the cake remained satisfyingly rich and indulgent — the kind of dessert that feels special without being fussy.
Because almond and blueberry complement each other so well, I served the cake with a quick blueberry coulis. The coulis adds a bright, tart contrast that cuts through the cake’s richness and refreshes the palate. I used some frozen berries I had in the freezer, which is always a good way to use up odds and ends before spring thaw.
At the birthday gathering the adults agreed it was a very good almond cake, but the most important test came from the birthday boy himself. He eagerly ate his small slice, asked for seconds and then thirds, and finally had to be distracted with the toy shinkansen we brought back from a trip so there would be leftovers for tea the next day. That kind of wholehearted approval is a sure sign a dessert is doing its job.
*For reference, the original recipe calls for 8 ounces of butter and 1 1/2 cups sugar; I used 7 ounces butter and 3/4 cup sugar and replaced sour cream with 1 cup of plain yogurt.
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Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour
One 22-cm (9-inch) round cake
Ingredients
- 200 grams (7 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
- 150 grams (3/4 cup) sugar (I use unrefined blond cane sugar)
- 200 grams (7 ounces) almond paste (I buy the Perl’amande brand at the organic store)
- 4 egg yolks
- 240 grams (1 cup) plain yogurt, regular or Greek-style
- 3/4 teaspoon almond extract (measure with care; this is strong stuff that can overwhelm the cake)
- 260 grams (9 ounces, about 2 cups) all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
- confectioner’s sugar for dusting
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F) and line a 23-cm (9-inch) round cake pan with parchment paper.
- Using a mixer or a food processor, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
- If the almond paste is fresh and pliable, cut it into small dice. If it has stiffened, grate it on the large holes of a grater.
- Add the almond paste to the butter-sugar mixture and beat until fully incorporated. Mix in the egg yolks, then add the yogurt and almond extract and blend until smooth.
- In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. Fold the dry ingredients into the batter, mixing just until combined.
- Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface. Bake for 30 minutes, then cover the cake loosely with parchment to prevent over-browning and bake for an additional 15 minutes. Turn the oven off and leave the cake inside for a final 15 minutes.
- Transfer the cake to a rack and cool for 15 to 20 minutes before removing it from the pan. Allow it to cool completely on the rack.
- Dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve with the blueberry coulis, or enjoy on its own.
Notes
Adapted from a recipe published in Amanda Hesser’s Cooking for Mr. Latte.
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 2 minutes
Total Time: 7 minutes
320 ml (1 1/4 cups)
Ingredients
- 240 grams (1 1/4 cups) blueberries, thawed if frozen
- 90 ml (6 tablespoons) water
- 30 grams (1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons) agave syrup or maple syrup
Instructions
- In a medium saucepan combine the blueberries, water and syrup. Bring to a simmer, cook for about 2 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
- Use a blender or an immersion blender to purée the mixture. If the coulis is too thick, add a little water to reach the desired consistency. Taste and adjust sweetness if necessary.