Sherry Wine Revealed: What Makes It So Special

Last night I attended an illuminating Sherry tasting and dinner hosted by the Sherry Council of America at Tru Restaurant in Chicago. The intimate event brought together members of the city’s online food community, local bloggers and culinary professionals for a focused exploration of sherry and its versatility with food. The evening was a memorable combination of thoughtful pairings, expert commentary and beautifully executed courses at Tru.

The setting: We dined at Tru’s Kitchen Table, an intimate dining space tucked behind the main kitchen. The location provided a unique behind-the-scenes view of both the pastry and savory stations, allowing guests to observe the culinary team in action while enjoying each course.

The service: Tru’s staff delivered warm, attentive service throughout the evening. From the moment we arrived we were made to feel welcome, and the pace of the meal allowed ample time to savor each pairing. Chad Ellegood, Tru’s wine director, shared detailed, approachable information about each sherry and guided the tasting progression so that every pour complemented its corresponding dish.

The menu and pairings: Executive Chef Tim Graham designed a multi-course menu intended to highlight how different styles of sherry can interact with food. The dishes were artful and precise, each one thoughtfully composed to showcase texture, acidity and contrast. Tim also mentioned a flavor-pairing resource he uses to help refine combinations, which influenced several of the evening’s successful matches.

The dessert: Pastry Chef Meg Galus closed the meal with a colorful, textured dessert that paired beautifully with the final sherry. The sweets were balanced rather than overly sweet, making the end of the dinner feel both celebratory and harmonious.

Sample menu: Working together, Chad, Tim and Meg put together a menu that displayed sherry’s range. Highlights included:

Apertif

Sherry-Marinated Arctic Char, Petite Vegetables
Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino

Sherry Marinated Arctic Char

Artichoke Consommé, Cucumber, Turnip, Mustard, Peanut Oil
Osborne Manzanilla

Artichoke Consomme

Artichoke Consomme plating

Skate, Spring Garlic, Duck Sausage
Lustau Almacenista Obregón Amontillado

Skate with duck sausage

Lamb Tenderloin, Spinach, Lemon Confit
Hidalgo Gobernador Oloroso

Lamb tenderloin

Gianduja, Concord Grape, Manchego Cheese, Almonds
Tradición 20 Year Pedro Ximénez

Dessert with Pedro Ximenez

The sherries we tasted

Fino glass

Fino – A pale golden, straw-colored sherry with a delicate, almond-like bouquet. Light and dry on the palate, Fino is aged under a protective layer of yeast known as flor. Served chilled, it pairs exceptionally well with seafood, light soups and fresh vegetables.

Manzanilla glass

Manzanilla – Similar in color to Fino, Manzanilla is typically very dry and delicate, with a distinctive saline or briny edge attributable to the unique flor that develops in bodegas near the sea. Best served chilled alongside olives, Marcona almonds and Manchego cheese, it also complements shellfish and light tapas.

Amontillado glass

Amontillado – Amontillado exhibits amber hues and a subtle, hazelnut-like bouquet. It combines some of the crispness of Fino with deeper, nuttier notes and a smooth mouthfeel. Amontillado works well with spiced dishes, roasted nuts and richer fish preparations.

Oloroso glass

Oloroso – Oloroso tends to be darker, ranging from amber to mahogany, with pronounced nutty and dried-fruit aromas. Initially dry in style, it carries a fuller, more vinous body that complements cured and roasted meats, hearty stews and robust cheeses.

Pedro Ximenez glass

Pedro Ximénez (PX) – PX is a dark, mahogany sherry with deep raisin and dried-fruit aromas. Rich, syrupy and luxuriously sweet, PX is often enjoyed with desserts—especially vanilla ice cream or dark chocolate—or as a decadent finish to a meal.

Sherry tasting

Overall, the tasting reinforced how diverse sherry can be: from bone-dry, bright Finos to richly sweet Pedro Ximénez, all produced from the same grape but transformed by different aging methods and winery practices. The dinner at Tru was an effective demonstration of sherry’s ability to enhance a wide array of ingredients, showing that sherry is far more than just a dessert wine.

The evening combined excellent hospitality, skilled cooking and knowledgeable wine direction to create a compelling narrative about sherry and food pairing. For anyone curious about exploring fortified wines or seeking new pairing ideas, a sherry-focused tasting like this is both educational and delicious.